Today I am sharing with you size 7 DIY boy pajamas. My kids have outgrown their pajamas from last summer and it’s that time of year that all the spring and summer clothes are showing up on the racks at the department stores. So I drafted up some patterns to make some really cute unique pajamas that no one else will have. These DIY kids pajamas are really simple to make.
When I made my first clothing item, I was really worried I would mess it up, that I procrastinated for months. Then when I finally had the guts to make it, it was so simple and not hard at all. So, if you’re worried, don’t be. They will turn out great!
3/4 yard main knit fabric
3/4 yard coordinating knit fabric
Boys Pajama Pattern
Serger or Sewing Machine
Step 1: Wash and iron your fabric.
Step 2: Print your pajama pattern at 100% or full size. Don’t shrink to fit page. Make sure the test square measures 1″. Assemble the pattern according to the directions in the pattern download. Tape it all together, then cut it out.
Step 3: Cut out your pattern pieces from your fabric. I used gray for my main fabric and the car print as my coordinating fabric.
Step 4: Now we can start sewing. First of all, you can use a serger or sewing machine. If you use a sewing machine, use your zigzag stitch. Sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance unless told otherwise. Take your two bodice pieces and place them right sides together. Sew or serge the shoulders.
Step 5: Now open your bodice with the right side facing up so we can add the shoulders.
Step 6: On your shoulder pattern template, there are markings that you need to put on your fabric piece (I forgot to put them on mine). These will show you where to match up the sleeve to your bodice. Then find the middle of the shoulder by folding it in half and mark it. Put your shoulder pieces on top of your bodice so right sides are facing together. It’s going to look like they don’t line up. Don’t worry, they will. Match up the middle marking on the shoulder of the sleeve with the seam of the bodice shoulders.
Step 7: Start pulling the raw edge of the shoulder piece to the raw edge of the bodice arm hole. Use wonder clips or pins to clip them in place. If you matched up the marking on the sleeve to the edge of the armhole of the bodice, there should be about three inches of the sleeve on either side that is not clipped because that will be the underarm of the sleeve.
Step 8: Now serge or sew the seam of the shoulder. Notice I did not sew the last three inches of the sleeve on either side. I just sewed where the bodice and sleeve were clipped together.
Step 9: Turn your shirt inside out and serge or sew from the edge of your sleeve, under the armpit, and all the way down to the bottom of your shirt on both sides as indicated in the picture below.
Step 10: Now we add the neck band. Fold your band in half and serge or sew the short end shut.
Step 11: Then fold the band in half wrong sides together to make a folded tube. Mark the four quarters of the neck band with pins. Mark the four quarters of the neck of the bodice with pins also.
Step 12: Now you want to place the neck band on the right side of the shirt, matching the raw edges together. Match the pins of the band to the pins of the bodice. You may notice the neck band is a little smaller than the neck hole in the bodice and that’s on purpose. Now serge or sew the raw edges together with a 1/4″ seam allowance. As you do this you want to stretch the fabric of the neck band since the neck band is smaller than the neck hole. This will allow the fabric to line up as your sewing it together. Here is a YouTube video that can help illustrate how to find the quarter marks on the neck band and shirt and how to sew it all together.
Step 13: Flip the binding so the seam allowance is on the inside. Use your sewing machine to top stitch 1/8″ to hold down the seam allowance.
Step 14: If you are using a serger, serge your sleeves and the bottom hem. If you are using a sewing machine, leave your edges raw.
Step 15: Fold the hem of your sleeves and hem of your shirt under a half inch and clip in place. Use a twin needle on your sewing machine to top-stitch and create the hem. I use the right side of my sewing foot as my guide at the folded end of the hem.
Step 16: Take your two main pieces and place them right sides together with the longer curve at the top. Serge or zigzag stitch the top curve only.
Step 17: Open up the pattern and fold it the opposite way so the two seams you just made are now lined up in the middle. Serge or zigzag stitch the crotch shut starting at the inside of one leg and going around to the inside of the other leg.
Step 18: Take your leg bands and sew the ends together to make a tube like you did with the neck band. Make sure they are folded width wise with right sides together.
Step 19: Fold your bands in half length wise to make a folded tube so the right side is facing out. Find the quarter marks for the bands and the legs of the shorts.
Step 20: Place the bands on the right side of the shorts, matching up the raw edges and the pins. I match the seam of the leg bands with the inner seam of the shorts. This is just like the neck band we did on the shirt.
Step 21: The leg bands are slightly smaller than the shorts legs. Sew the leg bands on, with a 1/4″ seam allowance, while stretching your fabric slightly so it all matches up, like we did on the neck band.
Step 22: Flip the binding over so the seam allowance is on the inside and top stitch to hold it in place.
Step 23: We are going to add the waistband like we added the neckband and leg bands. Take the waistband and fold it in half width wise like the neckband and sew the short end shut. Fold it in half length wise so the wrong sides are touching. Find the quarters of the waistband and of the waist of the shorts. Match up all the quarters of the waistband with the quarter marks of the waist of the shorts. Serge or sew together, but leave a 2″ opening to feed the elastic through.
Step 24: Place a safety pin on the end of the elastic so you have something to hold onto so you can feed the elastic through the waistband.
Step 25: After the elastic is fed through the whole waistband, overlap your elastic by 1″ and sew it together with a zig zag stitch. Then sew shut the opening in your waistband. Finally, top stitch your waistband seam allowance.
I love how these turned out! Aren’t they adorable? Download the pattern from my resource library and make your own!